Cluj-Napoca: A Weekend Guide to Offbeat Romania
While most first-time travelers in Europe gravitate to the allure of cities in the West such as Paris’ world-class monuments, the majestic alps of Geneva, or Venice, with its romantic canals, there is much to be seen and experienced in Eastern Europe.
For the intrepid traveler looking to experience Europe without burning a hole in their pocket, Eastern Europe is a good bet. In this blog, I will share a 2-day itinerary for Cluj-Napoca, a bustling students’ city in Romania.
At First Glance…
I visited Cluj-Napoca in late December last year, and was welcomed by a day’s old-snow and temperatures that swung well below 0° at night. Getting around the city by bus is fairly easy and cheaper compared to other countries in the EU. The locals are charmingly beautiful and friendly, but you may run into trouble trying to converse with them in English.
Romania’s architecture has been highly influenced by its socio-economic conditions, with a diversity spanning across medieval, (pre, mid and post) war eras, and the contemporary 21st century. Ruled by Communist leaders from 1945 till 1989, Cluj has several remnants of its socialist past, such as Virgil Salvanu’s anti-communist resistance monument in the city’s Simion Bărnuțiu central park.
Traditional Romanian cuisine is hearty, heavily meat, potato and cheese-based and spicier than expected. I learned that their dishes have much in common with the local cuisines of Russia, the Balkans and Turkey. If you find yourself in Cluj, here are some of the local must-try dishes — Ciorba de fasole cu afumatura (beans soup with smoked pork), Salata de vinete (roasted eggplant cream), Sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls) and Kürtőskalács (chimney cakes).
Day 1: Hiking Along Cheile Turzii & Visiting the Turda Salt Mines
Cheile Turzii is a nature reserve located 35 km away from Cluj. It hosts unique karst topography with a gorge sculpted from Jurassic limestone rocks that have been eroded over thousands of years by the Hășdate River. Spanning over 320 hectares, the gorge has peaks as high as 300 meters. While you can hike along different routes going up or along the gorge, we picked the relatively easy one that goes down towards the river bed. If you prefer to trek upwards, go prepared with trekking boots — the routes are fairly simple with helpful markers provided along the way.
Our route, which had us walking through the foothills of the gorge between two rugged mountains, was about 3 km long, with beginner-friendly elevations and shallow, seemingly tame streams of water with bridges running across them.
The topography was like nothing I had seen before — it was breathtakingly sparse with endless rolling mountains, snow laden fields and staggeringly high cliffs. Throughout our hike, the whistling wind and sound of birdcall kept us company.
Just like any other natural habitat, the gorge offers different vistas depending on the season and time of day you visit. If you reach the gorge as early as 8 in the morning, you will be met with just a handful of hikers along the way! Though we read online about stalls offering snacks at the entry to the reserve, none were open at the time we visited — so be prepared with some snacks to go.
Getting there: You can get to the Cheile Turzii gorge from Cluj by hopping on one of the local buses that ply to Turda. Here, you would have to get down and change to another bus that heads to Cheia. From here, you can reach the gorge by walking the remaining few kilometers. Download offline Google Maps, as network can be a little spotty, especially in the vicinity of the gorge. Alternately, you could book a ride via Bolt or even book a private day tour that covers both Cheile Turzii and the Turda Salt Mine.
We spent about 2.5 hours at the gorge and decided to walk to the nearest city where we could book a Bolt cab to our next stop for the day, the Salina Turda salt mine. Nicknamed the ‘subterranean theme park’ of Romania, Salina Turda is one of the most unique natural destinations in Europe. With a ticket fee of 50 lei, you can spend 2–3 hours in the caverns of this salt mine. The mine comprises a gigantic underground formation that was built manually by digging into salt deposits formed millions of years ago due to the evaporation of the sea. Today, the salt from this mine is enough to sustain the entire world for the next 60 years!
With about 13–14 levels below ground, you will witness mines from the 17th to the 20th centuries. Each level you descend, the magic of this realm slowly unfolds itself, and you take a step forward in history. The mine has two elevators and a flight of stairs. While the lines to the elevators would have you waiting for at least 10–15 minutes, it might be a good idea to wear your most comfortable pair of shoes and take the stairs instead. Look up to the ceiling and you will find icy white spears of salt, stalactites hanging over you. (Does anyone else remember learning the difference between stalactites and stalagmites from Harry Potter?)
It is also believed that the salt mine has therapeutic properties to heal and energize, reducing inflammation and improving your breathing patterns.
Entering the mine, you sense an impalpable rush of both stillness and playfulness — who can resist running their fingers along the cave walls and tasting the immediate bite of salt. It’s laden in the air, transporting you to a seaside somewhere…
What’s more, the mine also offers a mini recreation center, replete with activities for young and the old, alike. Pick from mini golf, bowling, handball, billiards, or take a relaxing boat ride in the underground salt lake!
Day 2: Exploring Cluj-Napoca’s Local Sights
Day 2 broke bright and sunny, the perfect opportunity to walk around the city center and all the sights it had to offer. Our first stop was the Central Park Simion Bărnuțiu. Visiting local parks gives you a peep into the indigenous trees and flowering plants of a region, something that I absolutely enjoy. Here, you get to observe locals of different ages and class groups, and better understand how they like to stay fit, or spend their leisure time. Cluj’s Central Park offers elaborate fountains and ornate sculptures, along with a charming pond, home to several fish and bird species.
Our next stop was the Alexandru Borza Botanical Garden, named after Alexandru Borza, a renowned Romanian botanist. With an entry fee of 15 lei per adult, this is a plant-lover’s paradise with over 10,000 varieties of plants sourced from all over the world. Visiting the garden in winter, we missed out on several trees and flowering plants, but enjoyed its greenhouses and Japanese Garden-style landscapes. I recommend visiting the garden only if you visit Cluj in spring or summer months.
While in Cluj-Napoca, do not forget to visit St. Michael’s Church, a 14th century Roman Catholic cathedral built in Gothic style, with an imposing statue of Matthias Corvinus (famed 15th century King of Hungary and Croatia) located towards its south end.
As night fell, we found ourselves at Union Square or Unirii Square, the town center which was decked to the nines to celebrate Christmas and the New Year. Cluj’s Christmas Market was a sight to behold with a Ferris wheel, carousel and a giant Christmas tree, not to mention stalls offering local delicacies and handicrafts. We stayed back to enjoy a late-night concert (albeit in Romanian), and the official New Year’s countdown. What followed was a ten-minute long fireworks show, which lit up the entire square and had everyone in awe. The Romanians sure know how to party!
Soon, it was our cue to head back, and catch our morning flight the next day. La revedere pentru acum or goodbye for now, Romania 😊
